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RESTRINGING AND SETUP TIPS AND GUITAR STRINGS FAQS
How to restring and setup your guitar.
Restringing.
When it comes to choosing strings, select those which are most appropriate. If you like a light gauge suitable for rock lead work, most people feel happy with a set of 9's on a Fender scale length neck, whilst 10's feel right on the shorter Gibson scale length. If you're a rhythm player - or a Stevie Ray Vaughan fan - you'll probably want a set of 11's or 12's. Remember, the lighter the string, the weaker the tone. I have a friend who puts 8's on his Les Paul and he has zero tone........Still, it's all a matter of individual preference. When it comes to removing old strings, there are two schools of thought. Some people say you should take them off one at a time, to maintain some tension from the strings which counteracts the tension of the trussrod in the neck. Others say that you can just take the whole lot off at once. Personally, I take the whole lot off, which is also necessary if you want to clean and oil the fretboard. In this case, I'd recommend working as quickly as possible, so if the neck is going to move, it has as little time to do so as possible. I haven't noticed any ill-effects on any guitar I've ever owned by taking them all off at once. In the end, it's your decision. I can't be held responsible for your '59 Les Paul Sunburst losing its neck! Just slacken the strings off and then cut them in the middle of their length with your wire cutters. Then throw them away - carefully. Now's your chance to get rid of all that dust under the strings! This is where the stringwinder can come in handy if you're taking the strings off an acoustic. The built-in bridge pin puller removes the pins easily and without any damage to the bridge or top of the guitar. Sometimes, the pins are reluctant to budge. In that case, place a piece of padding - a duster or soft cloth - around the reluctant pin and carefully remove the pin with pliers. Unwrap the strings carefully taking care not to kink them in any way. In the case of my Les Paul, I thread all the strings through the stop tailpiece at the same time, and with my Strat I thread them all through the trem block in one go, too. For some reason, I string my acoustics one string at a time. Starting at the low E string, I pass the end of the string through the hole in the tuner post. Experience will eventually teach you how much needs to go through. Allow enough to ensure about three or four winds on the wound strings and about five or six on the plain strings. About two to three inches is about right. The wound strings tend to bind together better where they go round the tuner post so they need fewer winds. Make a sharp bend in the string where it exits the hole and, ensuring that the string is going round the post in the right direction (hands up who's managed to get it going round the wrong way at some time or another!), make one turn of the string pass above the hole. Then, on subsequent turns, make sure the winds go below the hole, with the winds going successively towards the bottom of the tuner post. This will make the strings "break" over the nut at the sharpest angle. On some guitars with standard nuts and trem units, too steep an angle can cause binding of the strings in the nut slots. In this case, don't have the winds too close to the bottom of the tuner post. This may indicate that the nut needs some attention; the slot widening or lubricating, but that'll have to wait for a future article in this series. Don't forget to use your stringwinder. If you have to restring a couple of guitars, you'll want to save your energy for playing guitar afterwards! So, you should end up with a neatly wound string, with the first turn going around the post above the hole, and the rest of the winds going below it, trapping the end of the string between the upper and lower winds. In this way, the string is "locked", with the end being gripped between the top wind above the hole and the first wind below it. Remember to clip off the end of the string. You can do this when you have passed the string through the post hole if you're confident you've got the length right, or you can leave it until you've wound the string on. You may find that the string end gets in your way if you go for this latter option. If you leave about half an inch sticking out, this should be ample. Trailing string ends are dangerous - they can poke your eye out if you're not careful! They look messy too. Also, just bend the cut end up a little so you don't get those horrible circular scratches around the tuner post where the sharp end digs into the face of the headstock as you wind the string. Some people try and wind as much of the string on as they can in case of breakage. This isn't a good idea as you then have lots of windings on top of each other and you may get tuning problems as they "bed" down. Also, if the string breaks, you'll either break it at the bridge, or somewhere along the length of it - then you've lost the ball-end - or, it'll break near the tuner end, in which case you've probably not got enough useable length left. There are some other methods, but this one has served me well for about 30 years and I've never had any problems with strings slipping out of pitch. If it ain't broke.........etc. At this point, I ought to mention locking tuners. I have these fitted to my Strat Plus and they're fantastic things! All you do to put a a string on is to pass the string through the post hole - you don't need any slack at all - and then lock the string using the knurled knob on the back of the headstock. This causes a pin inside the post to be forced against the string, locking it securely in place. On the other hand, locking tuners are expensive, and with practice, stringing a guitar with standard tuners can become a very speedy operation. Well, that's it for stringing tips. I hope you found it useful. Remember, this is what works well for me. You may find other methods which work just as well, if not better. Whatever method you use, you should end up with a guitar that sounds "brand new".
Setting up the truss rod.
Adjusting the truss rod To hear a lot of people talk, you'd think that the long, thin piece of metal we call the truss rod was a cross between the Holy Grail and a Plutonium fuel rod. Yes, you do have to take care when adjusting it and it can break, but if you approach the task with a little respect for the rod and some common sense, there's no reason why you can't do this job yourself. Having said that, if you're in any doubt as to what you're doing, then leave the job to a competent guitar tech. It isn't the most difficult adjustment in the world, and, provided no work is required on the frets, should be quite inexpensive. The truss rod is essentially a long metal rod that is inserted into the neck of the guitar and fixed. Tightening and loosening in it flexes the neck and allows curvature to be applied to the neck, altering its characteristics and, hence, its playability. Before I describe this adjustment, a few caveats. 1) It may be, that after adjustment, the neck isn't quite right and you may need to look elsewhere to solve the problem. The frets may need stoning, for example, which is outside the scope of this series of tutorials. 2) Try and get hold of the factory spec for your guitar - and see how a standard truss rod set up suits you. It's a good basis on which to start, and you can always deviate from it. 3) Be aware of the advantages and benefits of the various sorts of "action". A very low action means that bending is slightly more difficult and the sound has less body. On the other hand, the strings are much easier to fret. With a high action, the reverse is true. I know that there are a lot of SRV fans out there, and he played with very high action, which explodes the myth that a low action is always the one to shoot for. When to check the truss rod The rod needs to be checked whenever you string the guitar, although if you use the same strings - brand and gauge - you can make the checking intervals a little further apart. Also, because wood and metal expand and contract according to temperature and humidity, you may find that the neck shifts according to these factors. Also, if you become aware of buzzes that weren't previously evident, it's a good idea to check the neck. How to check the truss rod Rest the curve of the bass bout on the floor, and sight down the neck towards the body, looking along the edge of the fretboard. then flip the guitar over onto the treble bout and repeat the operation. Observe how the line along the edge of the fretboard runs. If it seems to curve so that it bulges out away from the body, the neck has a backbow. If it runs the opposite way, the neck has relief. (For those of you who are familiar with trussrods, I know that there are other conditions that I haven't mentioned, but I haven't got the time to write a book on the subject. I'm just outlining the most common truss rod states.) It may be that you see that the neck is dead straight, of course. So, to sum up. you have three main neck states: a) relief b) backbow c) dead straight If the neck is dead straight, and you have no buzzing and you like the way it feels, it's pretty safe to assume that your truss rod is adjusted just right. Most techs try and shoot for a straight neck. Even if you have a little buzzing, if you don't hear it when it's plugged in - assuming that it's an electric, of course - then you can leave it. Not all buzzes will sound through the amp. If it still buzzes when plugged in, then this doesn't necessarily mean that it's the truss rod that requires adjustment. You might find your problem is solved by raising the bridge or bridge saddles. If this doesn't work and you don't eliminate buzzing by adjusting the rod - more on that below - then you may need some attention to the frets. (The lesson to be learned here is that all the various stages of adjustment - the nut, the bridge, the rod, etc - are interdependent and adjustment of one of these factors on its own may not be sufficient to achieve the set up you're after.) If the neck has some relief and you're happy with it, then you can leave it alone. However, if the relief is too pronounced, causing a very high action which causes intonation problems when you fret a note, then the neck will need straightening by tightening the trussrod. If the neck has a backbow, this can cause some of the higher notes to fret out. You may find that when you play say, the B string at fret 5, the string is fouled by the higher frets and the sound of the note isn't clear. The truss rod will then need to be loosened to apply some relief. Where to adjust the truss rod This differs from one guitar to another according to brand, model and type. Gibsons have the adjustment end of the rod under a small plate on the headstock. Some Fenders have the business end here as well but with no plate. Others have the adjustment end where the neck joins the body, in which case you have to remove the neck to adjust it and keep on fitting it back and taking it off until the rod is right. I'm not going to deal with such adjustment here. Some acoustics have the adjustment area inside the guitar where the neck joins on. There are also various methods of adjustment. Some rod ends have a screw slot, some a nut, and others a hex slot. So, you'll need a screwdriver, a socket of some sort or a hex key. Obtaining the right hex key can sometimes be a problem, but the right one's out there somewhere! How to adjust the truss rod OK - this is the moment you've all been waiting for! Using the right tool and a well-fitting one as well (you don't want to mess up the slot or nut shoulders!) insert it into the truss rod end. If you want to apply relief to the neck you loosen the rod by turning the rod end - the nut, slot, whatever - to the left, or anti clockwise. If you want to straighten the neck and eliminate backbow, tighten the rod end to the right or clockwise. Remember - "righty tighty"! Apply a one-eighth turn at a time and sight the neck as described above. If the neck is how you want it - stop! If not, apply another one-eighth turn and sight it again. Repeat until the neck looks right. If the rod won't shift, don't keep on trying to turn it. Take it to a guitar tech. Similarly, if it squeaks or grates, leave well alone and take it to - you've guessed it! - a tech. The biggest danger is over tightening. In this case, the worst scenarios are stripped threads on the rod, or even a snapped rod. In such cases, the repair can often be more expensive than buying a new guitar. However, you have been warned! If you're in any doubt about your own competency to do this job, take your guitar to a tech and if you encounter a truss rod that won't co-operate, do the same! Just use a little care and common sense and you should be OK.
Guitar Strings FAQ
Q: I purchased my first acoustic guitar about 3 months ago. When should I change the strings?
A: When you change strings is dependent upon how often you play, your playing style, your care of the strings, and the effect your hands have on the strings. The short answer to this question is between 15 to 30 hours of play! (unless you play coated strings such as Wyres PTFE enhanced). Here's why: As you play, the strings will collect dirt and oils from your hands. This causes the the strings to become dead and to vibrate unevenly along their length (also causing tuning problems). Dirt and oils get into the windings and down inside to the core of the strings where it can cause corrosion of the core. If your hands are dirty or if your hands perspire when you play, this will shorten the string life. Wiping the strings off each time you are finished playing will help prolong their life. Also if you bend strings or play hard this will cause flat spots on the strings especially at the fret locations, shortening their life. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Q: A friend told me that I should put nylon strings on my guitar to make it easier to play and help keep my fingers from becoming as sore when I play. Is this OK? I purchased some nylon strings but how do they go on?
A: First of all I assume that you have a steel string acoustic guitar. The keyword here is steel string! While nylon strings are under less tension and are larger in diameter, which you would think would be "easier" to play, there are other factors which make it improper to put nylon strings on steel string guitars and vice versa. The primary reason is the differences in the design of nylon (Classical) versus steel string instruments: (1) The nut - (part at the top of the guitar that guides the strings) slots are narrower on steel string guitars and would need to be widened to allow for the larger diameter nylon strings. (2) The saddle - (white piece on the face of the guitar that the strings go over) angled on acoustic guitars and straight on classical guitars. Because the diameter, tension, length and height from the fingerboard of a string effects its ability to play in tune, the saddle angle needs to be different for nylon and steel strings. (3) The tuning gear design - diameter of the post is larger on classical guitars. Nylon strings stretch more than steel strings and the larger diameter post allows for faster tuning. There are other reasons but these are the most obvious. After all this... if you must put nylon strings on a steel string guitar use the kind for "folk guitars" these are smaller in diameter and have a ball end designed to work with guitars that have pins to attach the strings. You will still have to widen the nut slots (have a good guitar tech do this) and live with less than accurate tuning. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Q: There are so many kinds of strings to choose from, which ones are the best?
A: There are many good string brands to choose from. Each has its own properties. To avoid conflicts with personal preferences I can not make a specific brand recommendation. The best choice depends upon your instruments sound and your own tone preference. Try different brands and materials and let your ears be the judge. However, here are some guidelines as to general characteristics of the more common materials.
Acoustic Steel Strings:
Bronze Wound - The most common material for steel string guitars. This string has the brightest sound when new. Is good for recording and combo work. However it will loose its initial brightness very quickly. This can be an advantage - If you don't want a bright sound, play on these strings for a few hours and they will start to mellow.
Phosphor Bronze Wound - This string is a bronze string with phosphor added to the alloy. This has two primary effects. It will make the string warmer sounding than regular bronze, and will extend the life of the tone (Will maintain its original sound longer).
Silk & Steel - This is a special design string where the unwrapped strings are plain steel and the wrapped strings have a thin steel core surrounded by many nylon filaments and then wrapped with silver plated brass windings. This string is under less tension when tuned to pitch and will soften the volume of your instrument. Also it will be easier to depress the strings. This type of string is not as bright as the other steel string types and less durable. Great when a more "classical guitar" tone is desired or softer action is preferred.
Electric Strings:
Nickel Plated - This string consists of nickel plated steel wraps around a steel core. The steel gives you better magnetic pull thus more volume electronically, and the nickel helps keep the steel from corroding. This is the most common type of electric string.
Pure Nickel - This string consists of nickel wraps around a steel core. Due to the pure nickel content of the wrap this string is mellower in tone and has less output electronically. It gives that "vintage sound".
Stainless Steel - The brightest material for electric strings, and has good volume electronically. The stainless steel is not as smooth to the touch as the nickel types of strings. Stainless steel is a very hard material and combined with its rougher texture, in my opinion, causes quicker fret wear. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Q: My classical guitar has 3 nylon strings and 3 metal strings on it. Why? Shouldn't they all be the same?
A: Actually your guitar has 6 nylon strings. When we speak of nylon vs steel strings we refer to the core material of the string. If you look closely at the end of the "metal" strings you will see that the inside material consists of many small fibers. These fibers are made of nylon! Thus it is nylon, not a steel string. The reason that the lower pitched strings have a "metal" (most commonly silver plated copper) winding is to add mass to the string so it will be able to be tuned lower. Without this winding the diameter of the string would need to be so much larger, to have the same mass, that it would be impractical to play. Also, if you break one of the wrapped strings and wish to replace it, be sure to ask for a (low E, A, or D) nylon, string not a steel string, or you will probably get the wrong type. You could damage your classical guitar if you put a higher tension steel string on it! --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Q: How does the size (gauge) of strings effect the guitar?
A: The effects that string gauge have on your instrument are tone, playability and its adjustments. A larger gauge of strings applies more tension to the guitar. This has the effect of giving you more volume and a more focused sound. Because of the greater tension, it will require more pressure to depress the strings. However, higher tension strings vibrate in a smaller arc allowing the strings to be adjusted closer to the fingerboard with less potential of buzzing. Lighter gauge strings cause the opposite changes. Most guitars come from the factory with "Lite" gauge strings .012-.054 for acoustic guitars and .009-.042 for electric guitars. If you change string gauge you may need to have your instrument adjusted to keep the action (distance that the strings are from the fret tops) the same. Less tension may cause the strings to lower and cause buzzing while higher tension may cause the strings to rise making it difficult to play. Electric guitars that have a tremolo system may also need it adjusted. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Q: The ends of my fingers hurt from playing. What can I do?
A: If you are a new player you will experience some discomfort at first because your fingertips have not toughened and it seems new players have a tendency to press too hard on the strings. With time and a light touch (enough pressure to contact the fret top is all that is needed) the tenderness will go away. Hang in there! (Tip - try putting one of the oral treatments made for babies, when they are cutting teeth, on your fingertips to reduce the tenderness.) --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Q: I like the sound of steel strings better than the nylon strings that are on my guitar now. Can I put steel strings on my guitar without problems?
A: This can be dangerous! The design of nylon string guitars is very different from steel string guitars. To get the best sound from a guitar there is a balance between strength and flexibility. Nylon strings are under less tension than steel strings so the top is made thinner and the internal braces are lighter allowing the instrument to vibrate more, giving you better volume. The extra pressure that steel strings put on a nylon guitar can, over time, cause the top to pull up, cause braces to come loose, and even pull the bridge off the guitar! Also, most nylon string guitars do not have internal neck reinforcement (truss rod) like steel string instruments do. This will cause the neck to pull forward causing the distance of the strings from the fret tops to increase greatly making the instrument difficult to play. The tuning gear rollers on nylon instruments are also different. They are normally made from plastic which will not support the pressure of the steel strings. The shafts may break under the extra pressure.
